The serene image of a desert at dusk and the impenetrable black of night were the starting point for Raimund Berthold’s spring collection, a slick lineup of urban uniforms that offered up lots of great outerwear options and interesting experiments in layering.
Beginning with a series of all-black looks, the minimal palette swerved suddenly into candy pink — inspired by neon artworks — then into clean taupe. Just three colors, but it was far from dull, with Berthold using it as an opportunity to play with texture and proportion.
Coats were the big story here. Several had open front panels that gave the impression of wearing two separate layers, while a padded satin Mao jacket had an austere appeal and pink coated-cotton hooded parka really packed a punch.
Layered looks like the classic trench worn over a shiny raincoat and trousers — all in taupe — or the very nice women’s bomber with a solitary nylon shoulder panel and black waist elastic showed off the designer’s finesse with fabrics.