Hussein Chalayan was mulling over historical and mythical events, diverse cultures and themes around conquest and protection for this thought-provoking collection, which was packed with draping, folding, soft edges and sculptural twists.
Jackets were displaced on the body, their collars wide and dipping low on the back as if someone had grabbed them from behind in an attempted abduction. Lightweight patchwork jackets and checked, tailored ones alike were remastered with the new, fresh-looking proportion.
Trousers and jackets alike beautiful burnt orange, faded baby blue or bright cobalt came with straps worn slung across the chest, symbols of protection and safety, according to the designer. Thick black belts served a similar purpose around the backs of cobalt blue or dark pin-striped suits, as did the crisscross fastenings on sweeping trenches.
Folds were everywhere, inspired by Eastern traditions of wrapping and preserving: They formed single, floppy pockets on patterned shirts and languid jackets and on trousers with chest-strap details.
Chalayan created other types of folds on pin-striped vests and jackets using knotted curtain-style cords for off-kilter — and sculptural — proportions for men with an artistic — or architectural — bent.