Japan-based boxer-turned-designer Arashi Yanagawa returned to the London catwalk for the fourth time to show his spring collection for John Lawrence Sullivan, named after the first heavyweight champion of gloved boxing.
For inspiration, he turned again to the post-punk era, mining the visual references he found in “Hot Love: Swiss Punk & Wave, 1976-1980,” a paean to that country’s music scene. He also took Depeche Mode frontman Dave Gahan as this season’s muse, riffing on the musician’s penchant for leather trousers, razor-sharp tailoring and midriff-baring tops.
Hallmarks of that subculture were everywhere, from acid-wash denim to jarring colours, tartan, leather trousers and even spiky hair. Sometimes, it was a bit too literal, as in a sleeveless acid-wash denim jacket, matching jeans and a white tank top. The tummy-barers were also a bit off, although the abbreviated proportion worked in parkas.
Some of the punk references did the trick: The words “after dark,” taken from a page in the book, were embroidered on a black top worn under a nice red suit with slim trousers and wide shoulders.
Tailoring was the strong, especially a windowpane check suit with pleat-front pants, and a subtly spotted Teddy Boy suit. Outerwear was also a hit, especially the silver foil and black plastic-coated coats.
Yanagawa also showed off some excellent women’s wear, using layering to great effect as in a trench over an orange striped shirt that was artfully undone to expose a metallic blue top. A checked pencil skirt completed the look.