Sharp and structured, soft and fluid, shiny and matte. For her first coed outing, Sharon Wauchob took to the dark and incense-filled All Saints Church in Fitzrovia for a collection that was full of opposing forces — and it worked.
The show began on a puritanical, elegant note: The first model, a woman, wore a lean black jacket with puffs of white shirt cuffs emerging from the extralong sleeves. A male model followed, wearing a similar tailored style along with a white shirt that had an elongated, pointy collar.
Both jackets were done in collaboration with Norton & Sons on Savile Row, and set the tone for this small, focused collection.
Wauchob dressed her men in loose, lightweight, sweeping layers — long untucked shirts under suits, transparent tops like sweeps of gray-blue cloud and roomy trousers that pooled around the feet. Trenches and shirts were gently crinkled and some had a plastic-y shine while one printed coat was as languid as a bathrobe.
The designer took a similar approach to the women’s collection, pairing a diaphanous green skirt — fit for a sprite — with an elongated, structured jacket, and sent another model out in a long, ghostlike gauzy white dress, which made quite an impact floating down the church aisle. Printed, tiered dresses were just as fluid and floaty.
The show was terrific and while Wauchob could have benefited from sending a few more looks down the aisle maybe, given the venue and the frankincense hanging in the air, she wanted her message to be more about purity — and restraint — in a noisy, crowded industry.