For his first collection at Canali, Hyun Wook Lee evolved the storied sartorial tradition of the brand with good taste and sophistication — and an impressive color palette that spanned from powder pink and ice gray to brick red and deep ocean blue. He called the collection “Lui,” or “Him” in English, and presented it at Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology, dividing it in four sections: Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration.
In a nod to comfort, Equilibrium blended formal and casualwear, with sartorial wool, linen and silk blends used in sportswear. The designer re-elaborated the Canali name with a graphic play as an allover print on the cotton-linen button-up shirts and the silk ties.
In the Dynamism room, colors were bolder, ranging from green to burnt sienna. The button-up shirts were styled as jackets, and cotton chinos were worn under jersey knits and over sneakers in a houndstooth fabric.
In the third section, Steadiness — which may also serve as Canali’s mantra, as the company stays the course without treading too far from its core values and without alienating its existing customers — blazers were feather-light and deconstructed to only two layers of canvas.
The lineup in the Inspiration room was meant to point to the “full of summer,” said the South Korean designer, and included easy jersey blazers in clean lines, slip-on shoes in sartorial fabrics, and travel accessories such as lightweight goatskin bags. This was a solid and promising collection for Lee, who joined Canali in January with 17 years of experience in fashion, having worked at Berluti in Paris, Ermenegildo Zegna, Versace and Gianfranco Ferré.