With stacked bales of clothes forming a wall at the end of the runway, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund gave a second lease of life to dead stock in their protest against the diminishing shelf life of collections and fashion’s growing mountain of waste. But the exercise also served to reinforce the house codes, offering a flashback of details and fragments of collections past.

Graphics from the brand’s biker jackets applied to mesh tank tops tops created a tattoo effect that enhanced the line’s Nineties feel. Versions patchworked with fragments of knits added a crafty note.

They also played with misfitting, oversize, thrift-store volumes on reworked bikers and the tailoring. The main jacket, elongated with broad shoulders and a boxy shape, sported zips at the wrist used to expose layers, falling open in a cape-like feminine gesture.

The silhouettes were simple but with visual impact, like the denim etched with symbols of mass consumption, and details like black fishnet underlayers and biker-style upper sections on pants, sometimes in leather, sporting asymmetric closures.

The overall attitude had a strong on-trend club-kid flavor, with sheer shirting and electric-blue and silver biker pants worked into the clothing. Not forgetting the quirky, battered footwear, courtesy of a collaboration with Helen Kirkum, based on fusions of recycled sneakers and clompy leather Cmmn Swdn shoes.

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