The No. 21 man remains the young, coming-of-age protagonist, but for spring, there was a sense that he’s shifting away from street, with a more mature and continental feel to the collection.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s use of shirting was particularly strong, taking traditional men’s wear staples like striped dad shirts and spinning cool oversize proportions. A rebellious touch came through in the irreverent, Nineties-raver, creeper-inspired shoes and the slouchy attitude, like on the asymmetric knits. Details like the boatneck sweaters and shorter pant with a subtle flare lent a sense of freedom and youthfulness.

The colored PVC leisure suits, including a total-look trench and matching short, may not be easy to pull off in real life, but added a relevant retro-future flavor and could be fun used as layering pieces.

The designer included some great outerwear, such as peacoats in leather or cotton with quilted tech nylon backs, or in a mix of kid mohair and poplin. He also debuted a collaboration with Stutterheim founder Alexander Stutterheim on the latter’s original raincoat inspired by fisherman slickers, only adding white stripes in place of seams and prints based on images of the No. 21 universe taken backstage.

Carrying over from last season the sleeveless Cuban-sunset, palm tree- and surf-inspired jacquard knits, meanwhile, telegraphed an endless summer mood.

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