A big part of the 50-year-old brand’s business is tailoring, and the designer certainly delivered with a lineup of suits, some of which were inspired by Ralph Lauren’s personal preferences and others nodding to the industry’s stampede toward more casual, softer-edged dressing.
Double-breasted suit jackets were made just like the ones in Lauren’s own closet, a wee bit broader at the shoulder, shaped at the waist and shorter at the bottom — with only the last button done. The shape is meant to flatter and the brand said it wanted to respond to customers who’ve been asking for “what Ralph himself wears.”
There were chic nods to hot-weather dressing, too, in the form of a lightweight, linen suit that was the color of desert sand. It was paired with a matching linen tie and soft-collared shirt. A tuxedo was born from the marriage of a khaki jacket of washed silk gabardine and black trousers, something Mr. Bond might have worn for a night out in Cairo.
Other jackets were as light as shirts, while a handsome grouping of cotton suits in navy blue were worn with linen shirts and ties in contrasting patterns.
When he wasn’t thinking about midnights at the oasis, Lauren was focused on street-style fare, inspired by seaside resorts like Saint Tropez or, in the case of the nice cashmere patterned hoodies, Art Deco sporting posters. A pair of tailored black wool tracksuit bottoms, complete with ticket pocket, pleats and a contrasting side stripe, was very on-brand. Who else could have designed them? He paired them with a matching, stretchy tailored jacket.
Other sportier looks included a bright white peacoat with blue stripes on the sleeves that was ultra-sharp, as were some chunky, shapely knits, some with toggle fastenings. The collection also sparkled with a filmy gold foil fabric inspired by the one that protects the engine of the designer’s McLaren Formula One car. It was worked into jackets, lightweight coats and linings, but it was overpowering — and distracted from the otherwise polished lineup.