Akio Mitobe has been designing HBNS for 12 years, but has spent two years attempting to expand into the U.S. For his New York Fashion Week: Men’s debut, he homed in on what he typically does — filter Americana through his Japanese perspective — but doubled down on denim, which came in multiple iterations. He presented a denim peacoat, a paint-splattered denim jacket paired with matching, patch-covered denim, jeans covered in sequins, and a nicely executed tie-dye set.

The rest of the collection hinged on updated preppy. Models wore striped oxford shirts, pleaded khaki shorts and pants attached to jeans. He rounded out the assortment with tropical printed suits and red, PVC track pants that lent some energy to the workwear.

Mitobe isn’t pulling from a new set of influences, but his execution is sharp and fresh.

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