“Summer time, party time, weddings, etc. — we imagined a party, the different types of guests, how would they come,” said Nina-Maria Nitsche, who enlarged the wardrobe’s evening offer to represent 30 percent of the collection.
The tuxedo range went from a daytime style in white linen to a mismatched evening suit in three different silk fabrics and a precious update on the black classic version with a jet-embroidered lapel.
The collection played out as a summery, feather-light reflection of the fall line, rounding out Nitsche’s vision of the Brioni universe with carryovers including the five-pocket travel jacket and the trompe-l’oeil suit.
As for fall, it was presented via a series of booths spread throughout the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, presenting a cross-generational cast of “real” men and Brioni customers of different origins photographed at their homes in pieces from the collection, this time with a focus on Italian residences.
Artist Hisao Hanafusa could be seen drinking tea in his wallpapered living room in a three-piece suit, only with instead of a gilet an overcoat in the same fabric as the jacket. Architect Matteo Thun was captured partly submerged in his pool in a white poplin caftan shirt with matching pant. Entrepreneur Marco Danielli, meanwhile, could be seen perched on his bed in a one-of-a-kind bespoke tapestry morning gown made from an antique silk hand-embroidered Chinese tapestry from the 18th century.
Pins topped with tiny perfume bottle stoppers from the Thirties decorated the looks.
The offer included a range of scarves with hand-painted Italian themes, featuring the Brijuni Islands and landmarks of Rome, from the Spanish Steps to the Colosseum, with illustrations by Ralf Niemann.
Other items in the elegant, super-luxe collection included an understated take on the Hawaiian shirt featuring a shadow of a palm and a Harrington jacket with a beaver lining.
The aim, explained Nitsche, was also to show the capacity of the house’s bespoke service, which represents 23 percent of the business, no matter the size, shape or gender. The cast also included clothing designer Grace Fisher and her daughter Fabiolita Guillermina, who were photographed in matching pale gray silk and wool suits and cotton shirts.
“There are women who like masculine clothes, and why not? The little girl, also. They were very happy; we were at the seaside, they kicked off their shoes and I said, ‘Yes, these are clothes that you can even wear to climb rocks in,’” Nitsche enthused.