With everybody doing sportswear, Rei Kawakubo’s obsession with the suit was very refreshing.
The designer opened up a virtual world, with latex Ken-like coiffs and a 3-D aspect to the clothes rendered through the colors and textures, from synthetic-looking fabrics with a toy look to shaggy camo surfaces on jackets or swinging car wash pleats.
The basic wardrobe was the classic three-piece suit. Everything came styled with proper shirts and ties or bows.
Using women’s dress techniques on men’s tailoring, Kawakubo used ruching to spin a spoof 18th-century look on suits. They came in a range of fabrics, from plaids to tie-dye in funny out-there sorbet and candy shades, with a camp Willy Wonka feel coming through at times, or chintzy taffeta curtains.
It also added a dressy mood and changed the perceptions of garments by downsizing volumes, with pants shrinking into shorts. The eye trickery included cutouts evoking bib fronts. Among the more approachable offerings, the tamer black suits with polka dots in reverse colorways on the shirt and lapel were cute.
The finale of garish shiny patterned suits loaded with oversize trophy necklaces — gold chains strung with animal parts, including a mound of eyeballs and jaws — was a fun walk off to a super fresh show.