Damir Doma changed his approach this season, eschewing the runway and homing in on the essentials: clothing for people, not editors and buyers. He’s been thinking a lot about how the fashion system isn’t working, like margins piling up at every stage of the process, blowing up the price for the end consumer.

Building on his aesthetic — poetic minimalist, in his description, which is apt — he offered a compact lineup of clever and functional pieces that introduced a breezy element to streetwear.

Doma recalled the patchwork pocket displays shown by Sheila Hicks in the Pompidou Center and put the idea to use. Crafting them out of a light, hot pink fabric — the perfect weight, not too loose, not too stiff — they added an extra dimension to the front of a jacket.

In contrast, he employed printed images of net fabric onto black to give the appearance of extra texture — the fabric was actually quite thin and lightweight.

White jeans were folded, and then printed in a peachy color, leaving patches of untouched cloth under the folds; he also applied a thin film of pink spray paint to an army green bomber jacket. Running shoes had chunky soles, offering a contrast to the net fanny packs from the Japanese label Masterpiece.

The designer’s thoughtful approach paid off this season, and while he might not have answers to all his frustrations, judging by the clothing, he’s looking in the right places.

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