For their coed spring collection, the design trio of Études turned to the West, borrowing elements of all-American classics like bandanna patterns, suede fringes, camouflage and car tuning flames. But that was not all. The celebration of American diversity included hip-hop, bringing back colorful designs from Karl Kani in the Nineties — the collaboration revealed by the designer’s signature overlaid on the Études label on the front of a loose pullover top in blue, yellow, pink and white. Other references: a hockey shirt, super sized and partially tucked in, and utility overalls, hickory stripes, hammer loops and all.
Sounds like a lot going on, but pressed into the label’s disciplined universe, the resulting lineup was smart, urban and for the most part, very interesting.
In a nod to Mexico, traditional rainbow color blends, running horizontally, were paired with loose, tailored pinstriped trousers for the men, and a long, knit dress for women. Vibrant portrait paintings from L.A.-based Henry Taylor transferred well to a silk shirt, becoming a compelling fabric pattern.
Logos, which the brand does not shy away from, were fairly few and far between this season, spelled out in white stitching on a jean shirt in a repeating pattern in one case.
“New context arises when rebels replace the establishment,” read the show notes.