A sprawling multipurpose space with an industrial vibe served as an apt location for a hot streetwear brand to stage its catwalk show. Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik presented their strong spring collection for GmbH at Le Consulat, an ephemeral, tumbledown venue in Paris’ 14th arrondissement.
“We started by talking to our mothers about their experiences,” said Alexander Huseby, of the inspiration for the collection, which marked GmbH’s official foray into women’s wear. (In former seasons, their fashion was more gender-neutral, and for fall they’d taken a tougher tack.)
Along with the designers’ mom’s tales of, respectively, dating a Pakistani man in Norway in the Sixties and Seventies and being a Turkish woman moving to Germany, Ma Ananda Sheela, guru Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh’s assistant, also served as an inspiration. “She just reminded us of some of the strength we’ve seen in our own mothers,” said Alexander Huseby.
“The show is what we called ‘Survival Strategies,’ because of literally my mom saying to us the strategies we had to apply in order to survive, approve or validate why we’re here,” continued Isik, who cuts all the fashion patterns himself. He said a goal for GmbH is to “bring sexiness back without being cheesy.”
Mission – very much – accomplished. The Berlin-based collective they cofounded sent down the runway GmbH’s trademark high-waisted jeans spangled with zippers and boxy clothing, all with some of the sharpest tailoring around.
The collection was strong on trousers in TPU vinyl and fitted tops for both men and women; suspenders – literally and figuratively entwined into silhouettes, and mixes of street style and sartorial elements, like hoodies, tank tops and suits, again showing off Isik’s pattern-making talents. Reds, oranges, blues, yellows, white and grays permeated the line.
Some standout pieces included the strapless, billowing jumpsuits in red or gray-and-yellow embroidered silk sari fabric for the women, and light blue jeans with fitted yellow-and-white athletic shirts for the men and the women.
Up next for GmbH is an e-shop, set to launch in July.