Valentin Glémarec slapped a red bandanna over the mouth of the “Girl With a Pearl Earring,” putting her in a black background with white lightning bolts ringing around her face.
“It’s a modernized version, evoking riots and protesting, one could say — with a destructive side,” said the designer. He printed the face on a black, short-sleeved T-shirt, a long-sleeved one in red, and on a leather jacket as well, with pastel swipes of purple and turquoise.
Glémarec took to Los Angeles for the collection, noting he was tempted to move his entire operation there, where he found the desert setting inspiring. Here, he filmed models traipsing around the dry countryside, almost aimlessly, in an exercise where refined and elegant collided with ugly and spontaneous. Eye catchers included a black leather jacket lined with bright yellow piping and spray-painted checked blocks as well as a dark Hawaiian shirt with images of palm trees being blown about, a fire raging in the background.
Toggling between streetwear and modern tailoring, Icosae’s universe, Glémarec designed an outer-space garbage pattern — which looks like planets and stars from a distance, but are actually pieces of trash, including a red soft drink can. This he used to make a long, flattering dress for women, short-sleeved with a collar, and an entire suit for men. Completing the head-to-toe look for men were a bucket hat and a face shield in the same material. His and hers outfits for a young couple — the sexy bad boy and his chic girlfriend.