Juun.J carried his outerwear obsession into spring, swapping puffers for trenchcoats and Windbreakers. He called his theme “alternative tailoring and alternative tech,” a way of describing the elaborate but technical gear offered in the coed lineup.
Much of this season’s fashion has moved to simpler and gentler territory, but here the designer thrust the beginning of the show into a place where volumes ruled. Carried with chunky trainers or stiletto heels, models rounded the room with cinched, billowing, flapping, hulking and fluttering silhouettes, oversize, for the most part, with loops of stiff elastic poking out here and there.
Things suddenly became elegant with the arrival of clear PVC layers. A highlight of this collection, clear plastic hoods and capes covered ensembles made of plaid — another house focus — or classic camel trenches. Accents came in bright yellow, orange or silver. Pleated plaid skirts and layers of smoky colored PVC were attractive.
The roomy poplin shirt made a return, carrying stripes and extra arms that flapped off the back.
Relaying codes that have already been floating around the street scene for a spell, the designer made use of his extensive experience to repackage them with honorable results. Not altogether revolutionary, even “alternative” might be stretching it a tad, but his lingering interest in this space is worth noting.