Junichi Abe tackled the world of sportswear — the outdoor technical gear side — taking what he found there and applying it to Kolor’s universe.
“It’s very messy,” he said, lifting a light nylon jacket with three extra layers on the front, a mixture of orange mesh, a yellow zipper with a thin green and purple cord attached to the pull tab; green, gray and black panels on one side, purple and turquoise on the other side. The designer likes to push the boundaries of what is acceptable. And when he’s not mixing different fabrics, he uses prints that imitate this, with blocks of different patterns that feel unrelated.
Footwear was a similar mash-up, including slide-on sandals embellished with mesh, elastic cords and the nylon straps used on backpacks, complete with plastic clip fasteners. He looked to four different sneaker models, from brands including New Balance, Hi-Tec and Nike, using design elements from each to make his own running shoe. The edge of one patch of suede slightly lifted open, suggesting peeled-off layers revealing another shoe underneath.
The array of lightweight nylon jackets, trousers and shorts had roomy silhouettes, often accented with bright patches of color. Contrast came from a sweatshirt in a thick, printed knit material in gray that the designer suitably referred to as elephant skin — which is what it looked like.