This collection is always experimental — and conceptual — drawing from the worlds of art, architecture and design. The past three seasons have focused on specific materials such as glass, felt and rubber. This time around, designer Kiko Kostadinov drew his inspiration from the works of Richard Serra and, in particular, the artist’s work with molten lead.
The arms of black sweaters had orange stripes halfway up, echoing welding gloves, while blue jumpsuits were done in waxed cotton, recalling what Serra wore when working with the malleable element.
Other pieces included a sculptural and stiff red fireman’s jacket and cotton twill tradesmen’s trousers in a patchwork of green and brown. Kostadinov also drew on the palette of Giuseppe Penone’s works in clay and Italy’s Sixties Arte Povera movement, with lots of soft, muted primary colors, which acted as a foil to all of the industrial snaps and durable, performance fabrics.