Sean Suen chose a scrappy schoolyard garden as the setting for his polished collection of elevated streetwear. Starting out with simplicity, a dominant force running through the shows this season, he sent out a long, dreamy smock made of a cream-colored cotton and linen blend, set off with chunky black sneakers. He stuck with the dreamy streak, even as clothing became more structured, using a silky material to craft a loose sweatshirt in a minty pastel color in one instance. Button-up shirts veered into jacket territory made from a stiff, plaid nylon; oversized but with the classic cut maintained.
The Beijing-based designer’s contribution to the current pocket trend was elegant; with round edges, they lined the front of an oversized vest, a mix between a fisherman’s vest and a tailored suit jacket.
The show notes referred to the helplessness of youth and freedom associated with escape.
“When you face something…sometimes you will run away, sometimes you will hide, sometimes you will run, and you will fight back,” he said. Opting for subtlety — the muted color palette, soft fabrics — he came out fighting.