One of the movements underway in Paris Men’s Fashion Week is the shift to a more fluid, baggy, slouchy silhouette — that for which Yohji Yamamoto is known.

The designer, among his compelling new propositions, opened with a new take on tailored clothing pairing a super soft, three-button, notch-lapel blazer with a men’s version of the culotte with sporty drawstring cuffs.

Multipocket utilitarian details on the following looks spoke to this season’s pocket mania, but Yamamoto’s sartorial craft succeeded in blending it with the silhouette without making it too affected.

His use of construction and mixed media, with the leather inserts on the blazers in different colors, heightened the collection’s quiet artisanal force.

The artistic element was the biggest storyline, though. The designer used the clothes as canvases for different types of art, from sensual sketches of figures to traditional Japanese art, and florals, some with tattoo-like airs, which worked best. He created the effect of flowing sails, adding dark romance to trenchcoats, capes, pants and elongated blousons. In the mix were colored leathers and blazing leopard prints.

While fans of the brand will have a lot to choose from this season, the designer, with this balance of the lyrical and edgy, should net some new followers.

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