James Long isn’t one to hold back. His spring 2020 collection for Iceberg was a loud, colorful concoction of head-to-toe neon looks, bright patchwork prints created with artist Peter Blake, large logos, fishnets, retro ski sunglasses and all that is trending.
The idea: To mix the brand’s Italians roots with London’s eccentricity and punk heritage — and to just keep enjoying the process.
Long is definitely having fun. Since taking the helm of Iceberg, he has dreamt up collections where Snow White hits the club in studded leather harnesses or Snoopy takes center stage on intarsia knits.
This season, Mickey and Looney Tunes characters made flash appearances on oversize T-shirts and sweaters in the form of distorted illustrations, but it was Blake’s Pop-Art graphics that featured most heavily all over denim, matching crop jackets and knits.
They showcased variations of the U.S. flag with the word “Amerika” printed all over.
“Subliminally there is a statement, I’m in Italy, I’m English, my mum is Irish, America is a problem. I thought it was really relevant for now,” said Long backstage.
While the focus on denim and sporty tracksuits remained, there was a heftier dose of tailoring added to the mix. But Long’s version came in bright neon shades, light fabrics and loose, gathered pants.
“I wanted to elevate this idea of sporty tailoring even more, which is how Italians live. Then we also added the punk chains to fuse the two [aesthetics] together,” mused the designer.