The designer tore up the classics for this soft-edged, upbeat collection that was full of pastels, cartoonish faces, lots of fat or skinny stripes, and pattern mash-ups.
He worked with his friend, the artist Alfie Kungu, on colorful, abstract patterns. These included swirls of brown, black and olive spilling onto oversize grandpa cardigans and baggy trousers, or geometric color blocks splashed on military jackets.
Clothes were loose and fluid, with lightweight rugby shirts sprouting long, patterned sleeves in muted pastels, while baggy military trousers were cut open at the sides to reveal bits of leg, contrasting fabrics or patches. Knits ranged from the oversize and edgy — some with comical, cartoonish faces — to the sweet, as in a cotton-candy pink crewneck with a single butterfly at the front.
The designer, whose fingers were stained with red dye backstage after the show, said he wanted to explore “the low end of technology,” and worked with screen-printing and tie-dyeing, all of which gave this collection an arty, schoolboy charm and a punk edge.