Per Götesson believes in a masculinity that is gentler and more open to romance and sensitivity, and so for spring, he delivered a collection that was all about fluid silhouettes and soft colors.
His signature deconstructed, retro-looking denim was paired with body-hugging, barely there tops; blazers were done in linen and draped loosely; while traditionally feminine elements like ruched jersey dresses or large, balloon sleeves were added into the mix.
Models also made their way down the runway barefoot, often letting long strands of excess fabric drag behind them.
“For me, masculinity is radical and romantic. This new masculinity I’m trying to grasp is inclusive and I guess a more creative approach of being,” the designer mused backstage.
The clothes also had a crafty, undone feel — think raw edges galore, strands of contrasting fabric messily sewn onto the shoulders of blazers or black-and-white pictures pinned onto T-shirts.
There was a charming naïveté — but not much commercial potential — in the raw, handmade feel of the pieces, which at times resembled toiles still in progress.
Among the most viable options in the range were voluminous, draped trench coats and leather pants, created in collaboration with designer Kathy McGee using 3-D modeling programs.