“I wanted to explore this idea of a strong man, but it just didn’t fit with my universe,” said Shinpei Yamagishi, who decided to hire a female patternmaker to explore the topic from her point of view.

The result, a collection equally at ease with its feminine and masculine sides, felt true to form, heightened by lovely fabric developments, like a velvet houndstooth and exquisite handmade Indian embroidery details that formed contrast bands on black tailoring and long shirts, lending a lingerie feel, with soft coats hanging from the backs of looks.

Shirts and jackets patterned with inky stains were made using an eco-friendly bleach, borrowing a technique typically used for making kimono’s in Tokyo’s Kyoto district.

Key looks include a silk-crepe buttoned and belted tunic worn under a fluid tailored houndstooth suit that had a sensuality to it, resembling a pantsuit worn over pajamas, as well as a hooded sand-colored satin jacket and long tunic with embroidered lacy motifs at the hem, worn over a large tapered pant and spats, mixing military nods with femininity and romance.

Adding a contemporary twist were a couple of color-blocked turquoise, red, yellow and black looks from the designer’s ongoing collaboration with Adidas Originals.

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