Lighten up was the overriding message, with Norbert Stumpfl stripping the innards from jackets in a multitude of fabrications, from striped linen and silk to a double-face brown silk and wool style made of two fabrics woven together then opened up and stitched by hand. The exclusive, hyper-luxe garment was paired with a linen shirt treated with aloe vera to get the soft touch, black silk seersucker pants and loafers with hand-woven tassels, worn by a mannequin reclining on a vintage leather chair as one of a series of lifestyle installations created throughout the house’s Milan showroom.
They included a Brioni bathroom presenting luxury pajamas and underwear, with a female mannequin perched on the side of a bathtub dressed in boxer shorts, supersoft gray shearling slippers and a striped cotton bathrobe — “his girlfriend is wearing his stuff.”
En route to the dining room was a guy relaxing in an elasticated pant and brown silk shirt delicately traced with black lines evoking the olive trees in flower at the house’s factory in Penne, Italy, edged with the house’s signature archive Regimental stripe logo, and worn with a formal pant with an elasticated waist. Other highlights included a jacket in supersoft handmade woven leather evoking tailoring fabric.
Presented on dapper guests seated around a table, the low-lighting dining room showcased the jackets — the tailoring world of Brioni, which turns 75 next year, with a book in the works — spanning featherweight leather, piqué and a double-face style with a surprise constellation night sky print on the inside.
Pushing through foil fringed curtains, the tour ended in a nightclub. “Brioni in the Fifties was the first to do dinner jackets in bold colors, and I wanted to bring that back a bit,” said the designer, caressing one of a series of moiré styles that change under the light, like a hologram. “They’re all original, they all behave differently; it’s like a fingerprint,” marveled Stumpfl.