After sitting out Men’s Fashion Week for three seasons, Caruso opened the doors to its new showroom in Milan, designed like an apartment and peppered by furniture echoing the Fifties. It is to be followed by one in New York next month.
The Italian men’s brand, controlled by Fosun, is restarting under the lead of chief executive officer Marco Angeloni and through the designs of Aldo Maria Camillo. A graduate from the New York Fashion Institute of Technology, Camillo kicked off his career in 2003 as an assistant fashion designer at Valentino. Three years later, he was tapped by Ermenegildo Zegna as senior men’s designer in the brand’s sartorial department, which he left in 2009 to return to Valentino as design director of the men’s line. In 2012, Camillo was named creative director at Cerruti, which he helped reposition in the luxury segment, while in September 2016 he joined Berluti as creative consultant collaborating with Haider Ackermann.
Camillo’s experience at such luxury brands served him well, as the Caruso collection he showed for spring was beautifully conceived and carried out. “We want to dress a real, dynamic man in his daily life,” the designer said. Ease and comfort are priorities for that man, without forgoing luxurious fabrics and sophisticated proportions.
Jackets were feather-light and deconstructed; seersucker suits were unlined, worn over the softest linen shirts or polo shirts with silk collars and details on the arms; an 18-gauge knitwear top showed a contrasting back in fil-a-fil cotton, and a K-way was made with suede as thin as that generally used for gloves. While the color palette hinged on a soft pastel and natural range, there were some checkered patterns that broke up the lineup.