Walking through Kiton’s spring collection, it was easy to come up with images of Naples and its bright colorful seaside hamlets on the Mediterranean Sea — although the designs could easily fit in at any luxury resort, from Capri and Portofino to St. Barth.

While continuing to be faithful to the Neapolitan sartorial tradition, Kiton has been evolving the collections into a less formal and more relaxed territory.

One thing has not changed, though: an ongoing exploration of fabrics. For spring, the key deconstructed jacket was in Sea Island cotton mixed with linen yarns that added shine. In sync with the easier look, jackets can be worn over T-shirts and with sneakers. Wool was mixed with nylon, which makes it waterproof for sportier jackets.

This season, Kiton added a technical capsule dedicated to the sailing world, with parkas with detachable sleeves or pants with knit inserts.

Chief executive officer Antonio De Matteis underscored a new expansive offer of Japanese Kurabo denim pants and jackets. “Our clients are looking for three essentials: comfort, exclusivity and quality,” he observed.

Super-light down jackets, which weighed less than 100 grams, were lined in cashmere and silk jersey. Kiton has also been expanding its accessories and shoes, introducing the Driver moccasins and Neoprene sneakers.

De Matteis’ sons, twins Mariano and Walter, presented a new tone of dark bottle-green for the third phase of the experimental KNT line, which stands for Kiton New Textures. A standout was the unconventional deconstructed jacket without lapels or with a hoodie.

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