At Les Hommes, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch looked back to the happy Nineties rave moment — a decade they have explored before — evolving it in a collection that felt personal as it harked to their hometown, the Belgian city of Antwerp.

The designers hinged the collection on three key themes close to home: cycling, the Academy of Antwerp and music. Enter cycling pants, compression tops with zippers and practical K-ways alongside mixed-media designs and hybrids such as bomber blazers. The designers played with the brand’s name and graphics, reading Made in Belgium, Antwerp and — especially — Rave.

Tailoring was loose and laid back, and pleated baggy shorts were on trend. Textures and surfaces were interesting and treated. Case in point: a bomber in organza and leather in gold that looked like crumpled paper.

Sheer shirts with an organza feel were paraded in an acid, jelly-bean color palette — from magenta and green to yellow and Klein Blue.

The designers were in control and the collection felt fresh. They have definitely moved away from a Gothic sensibility to an intellectual, street and urban wear vision.

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