One to watch, old soul Luca Magliano has a wonderful knack for capturing a nostalgic, vintage, Eighties sensibility, here filtered through a Mediterranean storyline with ethnic touches.
The designer’s signature, cinematic, pimp aesthetic was intact in the showy colors, like on pink tailored pants, and in the proportions and attitude of his spins on Eighties masculine tailoring, with wide, strong-shouldered, elongated jackets. Tongue-in-cheek details included contrasting cuffs on shirts, wide ties with banker-style tie pins, cufflinks, large buckled belts, exotic skin shoes and signet rings attached to necklaces.
He also featured inside-out jackets displaying intarsia details depicting gay orgy scenes inspired by Greek erotic pottery. A smoking was lined with terry toweling, the designer explained backstage. “Perfect for a midnight dip.”
An older model donned a black, high-waisted pleated pant and short sleeve shirt worn open, patterned with Mediterranean-flavored carpet motifs.
Jacquard knits with suns and fish, worn with large, high-waisted soft blue jeans; shirting with a fluid femininity, and a white T-shirt knotted at the waist to reveal the belly button enhanced the summery, seaside vibe.