If fashion means imagination and fantasy, Francesco Risso fits right in. His spring Marni men’s collection was based on a “wedding” between Truman Capote and Ernesto Guevara. What did that involve? A mix-and-match between retro elegance injected with a high dose of tailoring and the tropical invasion of camouflage patterns and field jackets. The show’s outrageous and rebellious attitude was heightened by the rave atmosphere of the location, which also telegraphed a green message with huge clouds of plastic bottles creating a floating ceiling. But beyond mere fantasy, Risso delivered a solid, relevant fashion proposal with impeccable three-piece suits injected with a charming sense of youthfulness, shirts printed with patterns echoing primitive and naif art, as well as a range of deconstructed army jackets made interesting through twisted volumes and manipulated textures with a 3-D foliage feel. Military jumpsuits had an unexpectedly sophisticated vibe, while polos with a teddy bear logo and college knits had a childish, innocent attitude, which is Risso’s signature. Offering a personal point of view on men’s fashion, one that breaks boundaries and established rules, Risso created a successful marriage, showing that the impossible is sometimes more perfect than the possible.

load comments