Creative director Martin Andersson introduced new tailoring-focused silhouettes and shapes for the Theory men’s spring 2020 collection, with the intention of reminding consumers what the brand stands for and redefine what a suit should look like and how it should feel.

The designer looked to “the entrepreneurial spirit of New York City,” Theory’s home and its pulse, and “Tropical Modernism,” a concept created by Geoffrey Bawa in Asia in the Fifties that promotes “clean modern lines without any adornments,” for the overall feeling and theme of the collection, as well as “Mega Death” by Tatsuo Miyajima for the blue color palette, patterns and layering.

“I think for a long time, certainly my own aesthetic and I think in general, men’s wear has been very buttoned up and uptight and now I’m feeling a return to effortlessness,” Andersson said at the Theory showroom.

The “effortlessness” is evident in softer, unstructured suits that conform to the body. Despite the flowing nature of the fabrication, Andersson used words like “precision” and “technical” to describe the tailoring. A new double-breasted jacket in navy Italian cotton stretch fabrication is paired with a navy linen shirt for monochromatic uniformity and contrast, and fabrications such as paper nylon and Japanese stretch nylon also promote comfort and airiness.

Andersson also gave workwear a formal spin through a matching pinstripe shirt and trousers, imagining what his wardrobe would look like if he were an architect. In addition, some trousers sport an elastic waistband to further promote ease and comfort, and a subtle injection of streetwear.

“Streetwear and tailoring and where it is going comes down to comfort at the end of the day,” Andersson said. “Guys just want to be comfortable, but if it can be as elegant as this, still have all of the ease and comfort and streetwear, then you hit the jackpot in my eyes.”

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