Casting his wife, Jennifer, in the show, much to the delight of the whooping crowd, Matthew Williams, in one of the highlights of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, revealed a more sartorial, delicate sensibility than seasons past with his takes on ladylike chic and evening suits for men.

The design direction was clean, graphic and sharp, especially on the long coats with geometric pattern constructions at the waist and big square flaps for the pockets. In a season of color, he stuck to black, the ideal hue for his precise streetwear with an industrial urban aesthetic. The black nylon section had a Nineties minimalism streak, spanning parkas and tops with big double collars worn with shorts or pants in parachute nylons or a Neoprene-like material. Standouts included the minimalist cognac-colored blazer with a matching round man-bag.

Long zipped raincoats were cut from a smoky, translucent, rubbery fabric, some embossed with a subtle croc effect, with the same motif embossed on a black boxy vinyl jean jacket worn with shorts.

With the exception of a young grungy-looking model with long hair in a large slouchy sweater and tight black pants, the collection was mainly a dressy affair, with even the more casual elements interpreted in couture textures, such as a denim look honed from tiny strips of fabric sewn together to create an allover fringed effect. While ever street, the line served to demonstrate Williams’ impressive tailoring skills.

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