Jonny Johansson built a colorful and youthful lineup, rearranging familiar silhouettes and polishing them up for a fashion-hungry generation.
The designer once lived near a student campus, where he felt the breeziness of the students passing by — more seasoned than school kids, but not quite yet melded into the Establishment.
He recounted the scene: “I could see them — on the bicycle, always — some cool cat coming by with a blazer flying or a weird scarf.”
His cool cats grabbed this spirit and took off with it — dismounting the bicycle and hitting the streets of a fashion capital.
Suits were beautifully colored statement pieces, structured and boxy. This sturdiness was offset by interesting experiments with knits — a bright red sweater looked like a poncho, covered in fringes, while a top with a thin ruffle running across the chest felt more like a blouse than a sweater. His masterful handling of gender fluidity was also seen in a look that paired a sheer pastel shirt with lace trim and elegant, but masculine trousers, in black. Scarves, which are popping up all over the men’s shows, were worn around the neck with extra flair.
Embellishments came in the form of plastic panels — stuck to the side of trousers or covering the front of a shirt — as well as extra long fringes, bringing more texture to the collection. Thinking of that time of discovery that happens on the campus, Johansson zeroed in on weaves, as he thought a student would, offering a shirt with wide, loosely woven ribbons that formed a sort of oversized mesh. Keeping with this experimental mood, he also threw a transparent, plastic coat over a jacquard, making an interesting, shimmery optical effect — a touch of techno, a tad futuristic and finely crafted, which is how one might describe the collection as a whole.