With the gentle sound of bells ringing through the Grand Palais — attached to shoes and garments — and the guests seated in a circle, Alexandre Mattiussi, who has been practicing meditation over the past few months, said the sound brought him a sense of calm as he honed his focus for his 18th collection.
But the line also revealed a dark side to the typically colorful designer, who opened with a series of black, urban-chic, sartorial looks with a touch of rock ‘n’ roll romance — all sharp cuts and a big dose of black shiny leather.
The collection had a slightly Eighties-via-Nineties flavor, like in the roomy long leather coats or a sleeveless evening coat worn over a black leather, military-inspired cropped pant with knee patches and a simple jersey tank.
Same for the women’s looks, notably a couple of chic, long, black silhouettes: one pairing a sharply cut tapered tuxedo pant with a buttoned up shirt and a denim style black leather jacket; the other a tight leather pant and shirt worn under a generously cut black wool sartorial coat.
Combinations of red and pink mixed with black underscored the dark-romance mood, with a subtle gothic sensibility coming through, including on a red coat with high side slits, paired with a black shirt worn open down to the waist of a black wool tailored pant.
Summer shirts in eyelet embroideries, embroidered tailored flared coats for women and sleeveless jackets or pants for men dotted with those silver bells figured among the delicate statement pieces.