It’s been a soul-searching period for Boris Bidjan Saberi, who this season eschewed a runway show and presented his spring collection in a showroom. “I asked myself ‘Who am I?’ ‘What’s the next step?’” he explained. “’How does it go on?’”
The creative director no longer felt comfortable in the fashion system and considered stopping work as a designer altogether. But Bidjan Saberi considered that his own work is about developing something from scratch, and therefore about “creating culture.” So he wouldn’t leave the business.
“My job is to blow your brain away,” he said, adding that’s with remarkable technique, fabrics, patterns — not marketing. “I have to do amazing garments…[it’s] back to where I started.”
On his mood board for spring was a punk theme, going back to his roots; a biomechanics theme, and the artist H.R. Giger. Bidjan Saberi also created a word “bioindementary,” which he considers the foundation of his new world.
Its landscape this season includes numerous garments with taped seams. Bidjan Saberi seam-taped leather and “microcoated” it on the suede side, for instance. The result is a reversible jacket with one side having a technical look and the other like “a childish painted jacket.”
Bidjan Saberi developed a prototype summer bomber jacket made with cotton organza and puffed with Japanese filling material. Originally white, it was object-dyed gray.
Bidjan Saberi, who perpetually experiments, oxidized a gabardine coat and showed a shirt with no seam created with cotton yarn knit on a 3-D machine.
He called his fashion “slow food.” “And slow food, you cannot show fast,” said the designer.