A Jamaican aesthetic flavored the collection which — despite its subversive messaging on displacement and border politics — had a summery atmosphere.
The through lines included weathered tie-dye-style spins on the season’s camouflage motif, reinterpreted in hand-painted bleach stains and also as a placement print, licking its way up the legs of a pair of safety-orange pants worn with a boxy white short-sleeved shirt.
Walking artworks: boldly colored pop portraits by New-York-based Canadian artist Chloe Wise were printed to scale on silk shirting, pleated skirts, a slip dress and peignoir.
Also catching the eye were the fresh sea-foam greens, crafty necklaces and distinctive coloring plays, including a broad stroke of yellow paint bisecting a black and gray parka with a drawstring waist.
Another print made up of mini graphic black-and-white blocks mixed with camouflage wisps had more of a digital aspect, with the line’s experimentation with visual language extending to screenshot placement prints of Wikipedia’s “Diffusion” and “Illusion” definition pages, used on items including a shirt dress and skirt.
The sheer knits and long, sleeveless dresses with a handcraft feel recalled fishnet tops, while the monogram print worked best on the denim, with letters bleached into the garments. The design trio also introduced their first eyewear collection, presenting four minimalist stainless steel and acetate styles.