For his second showing in Paris, Jannik Wikkelso Davidsen took inspiration from the Danish working class wardrobe. Taking elements of “mom’s wardrobe, dad’s wardrobe, the teenager’s wardrobe…” he mixed them up, usurping stereotypes and putting his distinctive, almost abrasive stamp on what is seen as “the norm.”
Davidsen’s casting — with models of all different shapes, sizes and physiques — enhanced that effect. “I’m trying to represent society as it is today,” he said backstage after the show. Along the runway, original workers’ union flags billowed thanks to fans operated by a guy on a rowing machine, moving tirelessly back and forth in time to the soundtrack.
Eighties-style office wear took on new meaning through shirts and tops made from tie fabric and paired with pants in black alligator-effect leather or draped crushed velvet — many worn with ties. The tailored silhouettes, with exaggerated square shoulders, were almost like something out of a dark comic strip.
A giant necktie became a dress, wrapped around the body but leaving little to the imagination on one of the women’s looks in the coed lineup. One guy walked the runway in a catsuit made from draped leather, another example of the designer’s play on androgyny.
Mixed in with all the appealing weirdness, sports kits and hoodies popped up here and there, their familiar ordinariness providing a striking contrast and enhancing the sense of alienation.