“That was the vibe: concrete jungle,” said Heron Preston who — maturing nicely — managed to take streetwear forward without compromising who he is.
“Creating a big family of collaborators,” the designer introduced tailoring, opening with a white Tyvek tailored suit constructed from 3-D quilted triangles and foam-impregnated linings, designed in collaboration with Dattner Architects, the architecture firm behind the Spring Street Salt Shed in New York, the venue for Preston’s first fashion week presentation in 2016. (The company was also behind this show’s reusable scaffolding set, backed by a wall of black-and-white videos depicting scenes from New York City life directed by Nicolas Heller.)
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“After that I decided to invite a bunch of people who’ve been inspiring me, like Brooklyn-based artist Robert Nava,” said Preston backstage, gesturing to a denim pant and matching short-sleeved shirt in a scribbly, graffiti-style print, one of the men’s looks worn with matching Grace Kelly-style scarfs. “It’s really putting art on clothes,” he added.
Nike footwear, Levi’s pieces and four waterproof recycled polyester Gore-Tex looks also featured, as well as a 35-piece collaboration with Sami Miro Vintage, dubbed “Natural Disaster” and based on denim pieces from Preston’s archives, reworked with silks, organzas and patchwork wovens.
A silky pale pink fabric used for the men’s tailoring also surfaced on a women’s version of the season’s suit, presenting a long, lean, jacket with rolled up sleeves and contrasting patch pockets.
The collection deftly captured the energy of New York streets, with a blurry zoom-in photo of a yellow taxi underscoring the notion of speed. But a hi-tech watersports feel also came through in a silhouette pairing a steel-gray anorak tucked into a pink jean with a utilitarian black belt. A striking blue wavy spray print patterned a total-look pale gray shirt and pant with elasticated waist, like an underwater take on a camouflage print. Which circles back to that concrete jungle.