Homme Plissé Issey Miyake invited fashion showgoers to a walk in the park, literally. Located in Paris’ Place des Vosges, attendees faced the square’s fountain around which models sporting the strong spring collection began meandering. They wore pleated tops, trousers and shorts, often in bold, saturated colors such as blue, yellow and pink, and carried knapsacks or bags.
The pace then quickened, as the men ran, spun air-bound, kicked balls and danced. More patterns infused looks, such as a light blue, yellow, black-and-white checkered top-and-shorts combination, and a green, black and white kimono-style wafting jacket.
The Zalindê female percussion troupe joined in the fray, just before dances around maypoles started. The weaving of ribbons and garments caused a centrifuge of color and gave a feeling of joy, successfully channeling what’s meant to be in the brand’s spirit.
Issey Miyake eschewed a runway display for spring 2020, but for the second consecutive Paris season staged a presentation for the Homme Plissé line. The last iteration was at the Centre Pompidou, and Daniel Ezralow, who’s known Miyake for decades, choreographed both.
“It’s how to express an energy,” Ezralow explained of his creative process after the show, adding his company helped launch Miyake’s plantation line in 1984. Ezralow then directed the designer’s women’s displays in the Nineties.
“He’s a friend, a dear soul and an incredible inspiration,” Ezralow said of Miyake. In 2013 in Japan, Ezralow choreographed a presentation for Homme Plissé, featuring the Aomori University men’s rhythmic gymnastics team.
Homme Plissé was established that year as a masculine counterpart to Pleats Please for women. The men’s clothing is designed to be easy — light and comfortable, with uniform pleats to keep fabric from sticking too closely to skin.