Nodding toward what he described as the violent world we live in, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s reflection on fashion took Curzio Malaparte’s 1949 novel “La Pelle” (“The Skin”), an account of morality in post-war Naples, as its starting point.
The young designer — this was his third runway collection — always sources his inspiration in literature, and despite the theme, this meditative approach showed through in a poetic collection built from soft, natural jerseys and knits that was an appealing contrast with the harsh theme and outsized shapes.
A gray jersey pantsuit had a tile pattern woven across it in part, like the ruins of an urban landscape broken open to the elements, a theme also evoked on the print of a sporty short-sleeved shirt. Elsewhere, the arrival of American troops in the city found its way in through military details like tattoo motifs, tank tops and cargo pants, echoed in places by the color palette of desert fatigues, in others softened and contrasted in shades of off-white. Accessories like a patent leather cross-body pouch evoking a binocular case tied in with the theme, punctuating certain looks.
Thanks to a new supplier partnership, LGN will be ramping up production and reducing prices by between 20 and 30 percent, Nouchi said backstage after the show.