The theme driving Hungarian designer Sandra Sandor’s second men’s collection for her brand Nanushka was “Come as you are” — not the Nirvana song, but an actual state of mind.
“I got inspired by the feeling of wanting to dress intuitively but in a practical way,” said the designer, speaking at the brand’s first presentation in Paris on Friday. She clarified: “It’s what we experience when we travel and aren’t going to meet anyone we know: We’re not trying to impress anyone but still have a bit of a daring attitude, all the while staying practical and comfortable. That’s the mood.”
The result was a laid-back collection capturing the chic and nomadic aesthetic with which Nanushka’s women’s line has become synonymous. Vegan leather jackets, made of EU-certified polyurethane and polyester, came in lush caramel colors, while soft tailoring was dotted with subtly quirky details, like a raw hem on rust-hued pants or a string belt with delicate recycled plastic toggles.
Neutral tones were mixed in with pops of mauve on a knitted polo shirt or a luxe teal satin shirt with Seventies-style flared sleeves. Prints were either hand-dyed indigo patterns, faded zebra prints on Mediterranean-style linen suits — “they were done imitating wood block prints, so you have a slight imperfection,” explained Sandor — or a surprising cockerel pattern on a cotton shirt, printed in Japan. A fixture in past women’s wear collections, the label introduced kimonos to its men’s line, in the form of a lightweight batik-printed cotton piece.
Showing in Paris was a natural next step for the brand — “all the buyers are here,” shrugged Sandor — but the label stays firmly attached to New York, where it is planning to launch its first store outside of its Budapest flagship, hopefully in time for the New York shows in September.