Color, pattern and embellishment have been splashing over the men’s runways in Europe, but Luke Meier isn’t riding that particular wave. In fact, he’s turned his back on it altogether, preferring to explore more minimal, neutral, tone-on-tone territory.
This collection was similar to Meier’s January outing, with lots of layering, tailoring and generous proportions. Among the highlights was a white workwear jacket and trousers, a slew of plaid or boxy check overcoats with leather belts or chains at the back, and an oversize nubby sweater.
Those culottes with the drawstring waists missed the mark, and the neutral palette of gray, white, cream, pale lilac and cornflower lacked oomph in a season that’s been packed with citrusy or primary shades and jazzy prints.
Meier continues to look to one of his favorite artists, Matthew Barney. This season in particular he was examining the artist’s “Drawing Restraint” series and the idea of how restriction, discipline and limitations can impact — and enhance — the artistic process. The colors, he said, came from a “clinical, medical, institutional” place, and from the idea of a pure world.
This collection may have been handsome in parts, but boy, was it heavy — with too much thought, theory and repetition. Meier doesn’t need to be drenching his clothes in rainbows and sunshine, but a bright shot of color — or humor — now and again wouldn’t hurt.