The invitation — a police department ID replete with a fingerprint and deconstructed black-and-white headshot — gave a first hint of Sankuanz’s theme for spring. Shangguan Zhe then fleshed that out, explaining his inspiration was a mix of the American West (“not like typical American cowboys, but an environment, cultural thing,” including gangsters), Coen brothers’ movies, Richard Avedon’s book “In the American West” and the video game Red Dead Redemption 2.
Despite the odds stemming from such disparate references, the mash-up worked well, as a fluid, highly wearable evolution from recent collections.
Shangguan’s fine tailoring reappeared, evident in a wide array of looks — from the sartorial suiting, military bomber jackets and trousers — still infused with the Chinese creative director’s signature bold colors and varied graphic streetwear elements.
A studded denim jacket was worn over a white-and-burgundy shirt featuring an illustrated cowboy and worn with green and purple graffitied jeans. Black leather decorated the shoulders, pointy collar and pant pockets of an otherwise classic houndstooth shirt-and-trousers combination.
Shangguan deftly added more Seventies silhouettes for women, after a first dip into the category for fall. There was also a collaboration with Timberland, with two looks styled with the brand’s iconic six-inch boots, and a wide selection of industrial jewelry, such as rings, earrings and bracelets.