Sean Suen was thinking about pain, the searing, punch-in-your-face kind that delivers a blast of color. But he mostly kept that intensity for the end of the lineup, save for a splash of red that interrupted a stream of neutral-toned suits and tailored looks. It came in the form of a blazing, scarlet turtleneck poncho. Cut squarely, it was tossed over a mottled shorts-and-top combo in autumn hues — the patterned ensemble made of a richly textured fabric from recycled materials; the masculine shape softened billowy sleeves, cinched at the wrist.
The Beijing-based designer exudes an elegant calm, which he channels through neutral tones, rounded edges and soft shoulders — loose but confident silhouettes. Reworking a traditional, Chinese workwear jacket, covered with large pockets, he transformed it into a suit, paired with loose trousers with a crease running down the middle. Adding a fresh voice to the conversation on layering, he offered a structured cape that fit over the shoulders like a cap — firm and protective.
The explosion came near the end — the sharpest suit, with the largest collar, made from a shimmery textured fabric. Splashes of electrifying blue! Jagged veins of hot green! Shots of silver! Carried out on silver boots, the jacket worn over a longer coat was perfectly on point with the season’s obsessions.
With pain comes beauty — sometimes, anyway. In this case, it did.