“Esse,” or “essence,” was the theme of Sulvam’s spring lineup, a coed offering of fluid nudes and supple tailoring, punctuated with unorthodox seam work. Teppei Fujita had struggled to relay the ideas to his entourage — from stylists to music arrangers — because it was all in his head, he explained through an interpreter.
The idea for spring was to boil things down to the essentials of the label. This was conveyed with flowy, cupra and linen fabrics and patches of pastel greens amid pale beiges and a number of all-white looks. Texture, too, was kept to a minimum, save for a few garments made of a pressed aluminum foil-like fabric. And he sought to steer clear of chemicals.
In this pared-down place, the messaging was left to the layering and tailoring, which was readjusted with precision, to project the label’s trademark unconventionality and gender-fluidity. Modeled by a woman: a tightly cinched suit jacket, slightly splayed at the waist was worn over a long white shirt with a double collar — the cuffless sleeves poking out on the wrist. For a man: a loose ivory suit jacket with slightly droopy shoulders worn over a pair of snug trousers, tucked in by seemingly random strips of seams. Men and women were outfitted in waistless nude gowns, adding to the genderless nature of the free-spirited collection.