Sweeping out the street and extra elements, stripping back to elegance, the shift to an all-black sartorial direction was unexpected, starting with a series of sharply cut, minimalist, double-breasted suits and coats worn on bare skin and paired with shiny, chunky derbies.

After all the colorful brilliance of his last show, Jun Takahashi did an about turn with this collection of beautifully made, masculine classics offered in the most shoppable palette of black, gray, dark brown, navy and blue.

The subversive elements for which he’s known, and the gothic appeal of dark romance, was at play in the intriguing, shadowy, pleated spider web motifs worked on the fronts of black shirts and tuxedo jackets.

Then came the cinematic references with Murnau’s Dracula silhouettes drawn from patchworks of sartorial fabrics adorning cropped jackets and minimal tailored coats, and art references, including Cindy Sherman self-portraits taken from the “Untitled Film Stills” series reproducing imaginary film noir scenes. They came screen-printed on trenches, zipped cropped jackets and shirts or applied to sweatshirts.

The designer’s own take on the classic silhouette culminated in a series of highly commercial pieces, like denim with utility elements, knitwear and leather pieces with two contrasting patterns superimposed on the same garment.

The gray mac with a shiny black coating overlayer was killer. Ditto for the brown leather and black wool military parka, with his creativity still shining in the dark.

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