Yohji Yamamoto might have been in a brooding mood, but there was a certain lightness and breeziness to his men’s spring collection.

The designer sent his models slowly down the runway, many with disheveled hair, to his contemplative, soporific singing, with the layered, all-black looks that are his signature.

Messages printed, painted and stitched into the clothing were tender — “I hold you, you hold me”, or longing — “hard to arrive, where are you,” and sometimes cheeky: “Mother F–ker.”

But all this melancholy belied what was actually a light and playful lineup — nearly cheerful. This was conveyed by wide pant legs, extra ruffles on the back of long suit coats and a few brightly colored raincoats — blue or yellow, in a light nylon.

Yamamoto shared his thoughts backstage after the show. Growing up, he was wary of society — people are unfair, he said. And he doesn’t expect the world to last — he was certain it wouldn’t be snuffed out in his lifetime, but rather that of the kids, or grandchildren.

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