There was something poignant about this presentation, which took place on a double-decker party boat docked on the banks of the Seine. Guests put 360-degree, virtual reality goggles up to their faces and watched a runway show that Yoshio Kubo had filmed of models at the beach, with a wooden pier as the catwalk.
Seagulls squawked, children ran and played against an overcast sky at the seaside not far from Tokyo, while a strong breeze blew through models’ hair — and through their gossamer clothing. The collection was lighter than air, with jackets made from small squares of patterned silk or cotton that had been knotted together. Sheer white shirts and suit jackets with drawstring waists were equally breezy.
Kubo slashed the arms of a jacket, giving them a texture like fish scales, and created capes out of the bright, colorful Japanese fishermen’s flags, traditionally made to signal a particularly large catch. Nautical prints wound their way over jackets and trousers, while a light-blue wave pattern, in Japanese Art Deco style, rolled across the bottom of a navy hooded raincoat.
Kubo said he was thinking of trips to the sea, and of his mother, who always used to make impromptu bags by knotting a scarf. It was utterly enchanting.