After a five-year hiatus, Nicomede Talavera is quietly getting back to business, and this time, he is prepared. “I am pretty ready for this. I have a plan for where the brand is going, and how I want to bring this Nicomede universe to the industry,” he said over the phone.
For his third installment since his long break, “Gentleman of the universe,” Talavera referenced champions and what a saint would wear in Christian paintings and sculptures. Religion has always played a key part in his designs. Talavera’s MA graduate collection from Central Saint Martins was based on the Muslim boys he grew up with.
“The relationship of team players is the real essence of optimism and fraternity, and I wanted to clash it with something that I have always loved, this inspiration which is the idea about worship. Saints, for me, represented courage and I like to think of them as spiritual kings,” he said.
The result is a mash-up of functional apparel with elements of modernized religious garb and sportswear. A boxy tank top with a marble print, a pair of geometric line trousers with a squared apron, and a padded jacket in a shimmering boxing short material are examples of his unique take on men’s wear classics.
Talavera developed the collection at home during the COVID-19 lockdown and didn’t return to his studio in South London until June to make the collection with help from his classmates and freelancers.
Having studied under the late Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins, and founded his label soon after, he took part in the Fashion East collective presentations during London Collections: Men until he put the brand on hiatus in July 2015. His design drew the attention of Dover Street Market, Joyce, Opening Ceremony, LN-CC and Machine-A at that time.
“The reason why I decided to pause was that the business grew too fast. More than I can handle,” he said. “Taking the time off was a self-love moment. I used that time to watch every single film Louise Wilson told me to watch and I taught myself about products. It was a learning time for me to get to where I am now, and I hope it shows with my work.”
On top of the biennial collections, Talavera is also working with brands partner to release reimagined men’s wear classics. He has released capsules with outwear brand Puffa and duffle coat-maker Gloverall, and a few more are due to release later this year.