Omnist, plural, reach. These were some of the few words designer Samuel Ross penned in his show notes to explain the subtext to his fall collection.
As of late problem solving through garment design and offering clothes that can serve the needs of a global audience have been Ross’ primary obsessions. “Omnist stands for this idea of inclusivity, a wider belief system shared amongst different individuals,” he said over a Zoom call from his London office.
Eschewing a precise narrative or inspiration, the designer focused instead on the design process itself almost from an industrial standpoint. “Beautiful things must always have a place” and a reason to exist, he contended.
The fall collection opened on a few pristine white looks. A roomy trenchcoat paired with a crisp cotton shirt and shorts, a towering parka, a nylon plissé loungewear-inspired T-shirt and billowing pants prepared the groundwork for Ross’ signature take on protective gear, this time injected with a more relaxed and sartorial attitude.
While utilitarian short, padded jackets featuring a hood wrapped around the neck, as well as a silver nylon harness-style vest with rounded seams, looked like sci-fi armor, a navy duster coat with side closures cut in a loose shape — the result of a collaboration with Mackintosh — as well as tactile ribbed knitwear pieces telegraphed a more intimate and cozier atmosphere.
Since last season Ross has been charting a two-pronged approach for the brand with the formal division between A-C-W, the line “carrying a youth energy,” and A-Cold-Wall, the more mature exploration of design via shapes and materials.
This collection proved Ross’ ability to capture both sensibilities — from utilitarian to sartorial — reaffirming the brand’s relevance.